Mysterious Skin
I can't blog anymore, get me out of here, I want back, Central Asia is still under my skin! Funny how I find myself still pretending to be over there, walking through London and chatting to people as if they could hide the promise of an unusual encounter (how disappointed I often am). In desperation, I sought an escape in Gregg Araki's latest film, Mysterious Skin. It's the story of a young man, Neil, whose free and lascivous lifestyle hides the scars of a pedophile's victim, forever present, defining who he is. A disturbing but fascinating film that I will find hard to forget, I didn't believe that it all could be portrayed in such a poetic, dreamlike manner. Joseph Gordon-Levitt has a magnetic presence, I couldn't help feel attracted to his character. How fascinating that the impetus behind Neil's freedom is the very thing that holds him forever prisoner. That which defines him is also that which destroys him.
I left Shahrisabz in the afternoon to board a vintage Yak-40 at Qarshi together with KBR contractors from the nearby US military base. They were completing their assignment and heading to Iraq to fit armour onto vehicles, apparently a well-paid activity. One was a Bosniac fellow, probably a talented sniper recruited by the US during the Balkan conflict (a useful asset, this man).
The next stop was Tashkent, where I ate at the delightful Cafe Caravan before boarding my plane to Istanbul. I am now shopping in the city and waiting for my flight to Zurich. It feels odd to have got up from bed in the small town of Shahrisabz knowing I would next rest in St. Gallen!
I visited the stunning city of Bukhara, far from the troubles in Andijan. In a spark of genius, I went to the university to see the students. We were swarmed by hordes of girls who wanted to 'practise their English'. A fantastic time. Now on my way to Tashkent again, leaving the country in a few hours.
I couldn't make it to Andijan today because of roadblocks on my way from Fergana. The city is seeing civil unrests in the streets following the trial of businessmen accused of having links to 'Islamist terrorists'. According to Western media, authorities have shot at civilians, including women and children. Unfortunately, I couldn't see anything and had to turn around. I decided to leave the Fergana valley asap, as police was closing down the only road (tunnel). I'm now back in Tashkent, probably travelling to Termiz tomorrow and hopefullly hitch a ride to Mazar e Sharif. CNN and BBC TV channels are cut, as are many calls to mobiles.
I'm now in Fergana, Uzbekistan, a highly religiously conservative area in the East of the country. I am staying in the area for a couple days before going south (by car, air, train and car again). I will be visiting Termiz, a stone's throw from Mazar al Sharif in Afghanistan. What a cool way of spending my birthday (May 12)!
Ride in the neighbouring mountains, shopping for electronics, tea with WW2 veterans full of medals, this was one day in Almaty. Now on to Tashkent, the Fergana Valley awaits!
Having a great time here, especially the night. One or two people will ensure I will never forget this place! Now on to Almaty...
A day in Istanbul. The landing approach took us over the million mosques and million oil tankers. I can see a ship wreck against the waterfront from my hotel. Walking along the side streets full of little kids messing about makes me happy. I am flying to Bishkek later today.
